At Lamspeed Racing teamed up with NA Autosport we are committed to the getting the highest performance possible from the vehicles we engineer and tune. During initial track testing with several customers vehicles that we had fitted with the MoTeC engine control system, we noticed in the logging a severe oil surge problem.

After in house CAD design, many 3D printed test parts and intensive on vehicle testing, we finally have an oil surge solution we are proud of, enter the Lamspeed Racing GR Yaris Sump Baffle kit

Fitment Guide

1. Jack up or fit the vehicle to a hoist and remove the front under tray so you have access to the engine sump.

2. Drain the engine oil into a clean container so it can be re used.

3. Remove the lower engine oil sump (black steel portion). (There are 10 bolts and 2 nuts, all 10mm head)

Once the bolts are removed, use the mechanics scraper in-between the steel lower sump and the alloy upper sump, starting from a corner and gently tapping the scraper in 5mm so to avoid contact with the studs, once the scraper is started tap the scraper along the edge being careful not to gouge into the engine block, steel sump or the sump studs as moves along, once you get two edges un stuck you should be able to break the rest of the sealant by pulling the sump pan down hand.

4. Wash or wipe clean the lower engine sump you just removed, then using a wire brush remove the sealant from the sealing surface and check to ensure there was no damage done to it during removal, (the sump needs to have absolutely no traces of the old sealant and be spotlessly clean if you want a leak free seal when its refitted)

Now use the scraper and razor blade to remove all the sealant from the upper sealing surface especially around the bolt holes also, (again care and attention to get all the sealant off will pay off later)

5.  Remove the 4 bolts we have marked with yellow in the picture below. (The sump baffle will be held in place using these 4 bolts and the two M6 ones in the picture below)

6. Now place baffle 1 into the engine, noting the end closest the label in the picture below fits around the oil pickup tube, its easiest to put this end over the pickup tube first, if you fit it at the point where the oil pick up tube mounting bolt is then raise the other end to the bottom of the engine and slide the whole baffle sideways until the bolt holes line up, you can then fit the original two bolts to secure Baffle 1 (lubricating the threads and under the head of the bolts with engine oil) tighten finger tight only at this stage so the baffle can still be moved but is not loose.

7. Now clean out the threaded holes for the two bolts in the red circle below with an evaporative solvent (so the Loctite has a clean surface to adhere) then fit Baffle 2 using the 2x M6 bolts supplied (applying Loctite 241 to the threads) again hand tight only so the baffle can be slid left to right.

8. Now fit Baffle 3 using the original bolts, also hand tight only at this stage so the baffle can be moved (lubricating the threads on the bolts and under the heads of the bolts with engine oil)

9. Now the 2x M5 Allen head bolts (shown by the red arrows above) can be threaded into the pre fitted speed nuts to secure the baffles together (apply Loctite 241 to the threads) again only finger tight at this point. Now that the Sump Baffle kit is fitted to the engine the three pieces need to be moved around for best fit (we have made them adjustable due to variances in the steel sump pan found across several engines) I prefer to start with all the baffles as straight up and down as possible with the least amount of bending to the baffles as the bolts are tightened.

10. Once this is achieved tension the supplied 2x M6 bolts holding Baffle two down to 4Nm and then the M6 bolt that secures Baffle 1 to the oil pickup tube to 10Nm (shown by the red arrows above)

11. Then tighten the 2x M5 Allen head bolts into the speed nuts securing the baffles together to 2.1 Nm (shown by the red arrows above)

12. Now tension the two 12mm head bolts indicated below in red to 25Nm as per the Toyota Manual (ensure the baffle does not get twisted in the process)

13. Tension the 14mm headed bolt indicated above to 54Nm as per the Toyota manual and again ensure the baffle does not get twisted when tightening the bolt.

14. Now apply strips of tape to the lower sump section as shown in the above picture

15. Now apply paint pen to the lower edges of the baffle kit as per the picture above until it look like the picture below

16. Now quickly fit the lower sump to the engine while the paint pen is still wet so any interference is easily visible like the mark indicated by my finger above, in this case the baffle requires slight bending to avoid interference with the rib in the lower sump, this slight bend can easily be done by hand similar to the below picture

 

IMPORTANT NOTE: For the sump baffle kit to work properly it needs to be a tight fit to the lower steel sump pan. Due to manufacturing tolerances of the lower sump, on some installations slight bending of the baffles may be required for the baffle kit to fit without interference with the lower sumps ribs, this is a normal part of this installation. No cutting or grinding should be performed on the sump baffle as this will affect its ability to control the oil surge.

 

If the above is the case a slight bend of the baffle upward (of 1-2 mm) toward the deeper section of the sump will solve the clearance issue.

17. Once the lower sump section has been test fitted and it fits without interference from the baffles, the lower sump and upper sealing surfaces can now be cleaned with evaporative solvent, I suggest cleaning both sides multiple times to ensure absolutely no oil residue is present,

**Note** Your Cleanliness is absolutely critical to the sealant working, even the grease from your fingers will affect the your chosen brand of sealant so do not touch the surfaces or the sealant after its been cleaned

**

18. I suggest now preparing the bolts, nuts and tools required to fit the lower sump quickly.

19. You can then apply your chosen sealant (as per the instructions provided on the sealant package) to the lower sump and fit it. Tension the lower sump nuts and bolts to 3.5Nm.

20. I Firmly suggest leaving the sealant to dry for the longest period of time possible before adding the oil, (ideally at least a day or more follow the directions on the sealant packaging)

21. Now remove the vehicle from the stands and fill the oil up to the normal full line, run the engine and re check the oil level top up as necessary and ensure no leaks. Once confident there is no leaks you can refit the lower engine covers and test drive the vehicle

For Extreme use - Its possible to add an 500ml of extra engine oil and using a file or similar add a new full line or notch to the dip stick this will help in extreme high RPM and very high grip use.

The below data was gathered with the same oil, on the same circuit with the same driver but 13 Months later into development of the vehicle, the car in the second lot of data is significantly faster despite a considerable reduction in boost to comply with the class rules.

Before Baffle kit

After baffle kit, car was much more developed and was generating much more G force longitudinally and Laterally